"A bag of monkeys" is how one of the desert fathers described the human mind. And, that is much how I feel anytime I am in the Old City of Jerusalem. It is very hard to keep focused on why you are really there, amidst the throngs of pilgrims and tourists, the various religious groups that live and worship in various parts of the city, the shopkeepers and hawkers who are trying to lure you in, the uneven pathways, the sounds and smells, and the ever present young Israelis packing machine guns. And, in the most holy of Christian places, The Church of the Holy Sepulcher , all of this is even more magnified. There is an energy, and a spiritual conflict that is ever-present wherever you are in the city.
My friend Ruairi asked me how my perspective on visiting Israel had changed since my first visit thirty years ago. I mentioned that my views on eschatology had created some change. Thirty years ago I was caught up in visiting Megiddo, and anticipating the events that evangelicals/dispensationalists have mapped out for us for that particular spot. Much of what I saw on that first trip was filtered through that eschatology. I could have said that I was caught up in a great zeal for the State of Israel at that time. Masada was a favorite stop. At the time I was steeped in Jewish studies at the University of Virginia, and vicariously a citizen of the modern State of Israel. "Never again, Masada" is a rallying cry for Israelis much the way that "Remember the Alamo" was for Texans. Reveling in the angst of modern Israelis seemed to be part of the package thirty years ago. To be future minded, pro-Israel, and Christian all seemed to make sense.
The Lord Jesus Christ told the Jews of His time that their house would be left to them desolate. When I go to the Wailing Wall today I see the desolation of Israel. With an amazing zeal the faithful perpetually pray there. Yet, the One they pray to passed through their midst. He still passes through their midst. Religious judaism failed when it rejected the God-Man and all that is left is the Wailing Wall from the time of its failure. The Pharisee Nicodemus made the right choice and the right time. Political judaism failed and Megiddo is its monument. Simon the Zealot made the right decision when he followed Christ instead of following his brothers to a suicide in the desert. I pray that God will be merciful to those pious Jews who pray fervently at the Wall.
Make no mistake, the State of Israel would be happy if every non-Israeli would disappear from their country. It is clear that their legal system is designed to remove non-Israelis from the land, one way or another. It doesn't matter whether you are a Moslem or not, a Christian or not, a law abiding person or not, or how long you have lived in the land. Legal loopholes are used to deport people every day. Non-Israeli dead are even being dug up from the Mount of Olives so that Israelis can be buried. They are welcoming Jews from all over the world with open arms, and as this policy continues more people will continue to be preempted from their land. The situation will only become worse with time and congestion. In 30 years my perspective has certainly changed on the State of Israel. That entity is no friend of the Body of Christ. It is systematically driving away as many Christians as it can, and making it intolerable, especially for Palestinian Christians, to live there. I am no longer a fan.
My perspective on the historical sites has changed as well. All of the sites in Old Jerusalem were discounted by our evangelical "completed Jew" tour guide. We walked by the door of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and were told that "here is where the Catholics" say Christ rose from the dead. Of course, we were then directed to Gordon's (Garden) Tomb which has no historical connection to the life of Christ. The work of St. Helen in and around the city was completely discounted. Today I have a much greater appreciation for the historical sites. I am drawn to those places that contain the relics of the saints.
What has not changed for me is the importance of having a perspective on the land itself. The terrain and climate have not changed dramatically in the last two thousand years. I can visualize what it means to walk across or sail across the Sea of Galilee. I can appreciate the effort involved in walking "up to Jerusalem" especially when one reaches that brutal stretch of road from Jericho to Jerusalem. I marvel at how St. John the Forerunner, or Elijah, or untold numbers of monastics, could possibly live for any length of time in such a harsh desert climate. I know what the gospels means when they speak of Jesus leaving the city, crossing the Kidron Valley, and ascending the Mount of Olives…..
If you have never been to the Holy Land I encourage you to go. A visit can only help your faith to grow.
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