Up to Jerusalem 2009: Part Three

"A bag of monkeys" is how one of the desert fathers described the human mind. And, that is much how I feel anytime I am in the Old City of Jerusalem. It is very hard to keep focused on why you are really there, amidst the throngs of pilgrims and tourists, the various religious groups that live and worship in various parts of the city, the shopkeepers and hawkers who are trying to lure you in, the uneven pathways, the sounds and smells, and the ever present young Israelis packing machine guns. And, in the most holy of Christian places, The Church of the Holy Sepulcher , all of this is even more magnified. There is an energy, and a spiritual conflict that is ever-present wherever you are in the city.

My friend Ruairi asked me how my perspective on visiting Israel had changed since my first visit thirty years ago. I mentioned that my views on eschatology had created some change. Thirty years ago I was caught up in visiting Megiddo, and anticipating the events that evangelicals/dispensationalists have mapped out for us for that particular spot. Much of what I saw on that first trip was filtered through that eschatology. I could have said that I was caught up in a great zeal for the State of Israel at that time. Masada was a favorite stop. At the time I was steeped in Jewish studies at the University of Virginia, and vicariously a citizen of the modern State of Israel. "Never again, Masada" is a rallying cry for Israelis much the way that "Remember the Alamo" was for Texans. Reveling in the angst of modern Israelis seemed to be part of the package thirty years ago. To be future minded, pro-Israel, and Christian all seemed to make sense.

The Lord Jesus Christ told the Jews of His time that their house would be left to them desolate. When I go to the Wailing Wall today I see the desolation of Israel. With an amazing zeal the faithful perpetually pray there. Yet, the One they pray to passed through their midst. He still passes through their midst. Religious judaism failed when it rejected the God-Man and all that is left is the Wailing Wall from the time of its failure. The Pharisee Nicodemus made the right choice and the right time. Political judaism failed and Megiddo is its monument. Simon the Zealot made the right decision when he followed Christ instead of following his brothers to a suicide in the desert. I pray that God will be merciful to those pious Jews who pray fervently at the Wall.

Make no mistake, the State of Israel would be happy if every non-Israeli would disappear from their country. It is clear that their legal system is designed to remove non-Israelis from the land, one way or another. It doesn't matter whether you are a Moslem or not, a Christian or not, a law abiding person or not, or how long you have lived in the land. Legal loopholes are used to deport people every day. Non-Israeli dead are even being dug up from the Mount of Olives so that Israelis can be buried. They are welcoming Jews from all over the world with open arms, and as this policy continues more people will continue to be preempted from their land. The situation will only become worse with time and congestion. In 30 years my perspective has certainly changed on the State of Israel. That entity is no friend of the Body of Christ. It is systematically driving away as many Christians as it can, and making it intolerable, especially for Palestinian Christians, to live there. I am no longer a fan.

My perspective on the historical sites has changed as well. All of the sites in Old Jerusalem were discounted by our evangelical "completed Jew" tour guide. We walked by the door of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and were told that "here is where the Catholics" say Christ rose from the dead. Of course, we were then directed to Gordon's (Garden) Tomb which has no historical connection to the life of Christ. The work of St. Helen in and around the city was completely discounted. Today I have a much greater appreciation for the historical sites. I am drawn to those places that contain the relics of the saints.

What has not changed for me is the importance of having a perspective on the land itself. The terrain and climate have not changed dramatically in the last two thousand years. I can visualize what it means to walk across or sail across the Sea of Galilee. I can appreciate the effort involved in walking "up to Jerusalem" especially when one reaches that brutal stretch of road from Jericho to Jerusalem. I marvel at how St. John the Forerunner, or Elijah, or untold numbers of monastics, could possibly live for any length of time in such a harsh desert climate. I know what the gospels means when they speak of Jesus leaving the city, crossing the Kidron Valley, and ascending the Mount of Olives…..

If you have never been to the Holy Land I encourage you to go. A visit can only help your faith to grow.

Up to Jerusalem 2009: Part Two

Two weeks ago I had the pleasure of participating in the Divine Liturgy of St. James in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The setting of this service is actually a church within a church. The Greek Orthodox "chapel" (larger than many free standing churches) is found within the cavernous Church of the Holy Sepulchre between Golgotha and the Empty Tomb. A mark in

the floor of the nave actually marks the equidistant point. When a priest stands behind the altar he is actually looking out and can see into the empty

tomb. One receives the Body and Blood of Christ between the Cross and the Tomb. One is surrounded by beautiful icons on all the walls, and even above in the high domed ceiling. The choir voices filled the great space. There were perhaps a dozen men who served in and around the sanctuary as the Archbishop sat in the nave with the congregation.

This is the city where the church

began, this is the place where Christ's earthly ministry came to fruition. To be in that place for a Liturgy is unique, and extra special. I will never forget the experience.

One of those who accompanied me that day was Fr. Maximus Tatum. Yesterday, I had the pleasure of being in Portsmouth, Virginia at his first Divine

Liturgy of St. John Chrysostom for the new mission, Holy Myrrhbearers Orthodox Church. The service was

held in a borrowed chapel of another church, with few icons, a low ceiling, two other men in attendance and a small choir with a small congregation.

Portsmouth is a long way from Jerusalem, geographically and spiritually. To be in that place yesterday for a Liturgy was unique and special, and I will never forget the experience. You see, the Orthodox Church believes that whenever a Liturgy is held all of the saints are present, and that we are surrounded by the heavenly host. The same Body and Blood of Christ is partaken of regardless of where the service is held.

The words of the Cherubic Hymn are sung:

"We, who mystically represent the Cherubim,

And chant the thrice holy hymn to the Life-giving Trinity,

Let us set aside all earthly cares,

That we may raise on high the King of all,

Who comes invisibly escorted by the angelic hosts."

And, in addition, that service yesterday signaled the beginning of a new ministry as well as the work of a new minister. My thoughts and prayers are with Father Maximus as he begins this new work. May God bless all those who are a part of that ministry.

Up to Jerusalem 2009: Part One

The jet lag is fading, and the myriad of remembrances of my time in and around the Old City are congealing into useable form. There has never been a city like Jerusalem in the history of the world. Where else have the major world religions and the world's greatest armies contended for so long, and so earnestly, and sometimes at the same time? Where else have children continued to play in the streets while crossbows or machine guns (depending on the century) continued to kill? From the time of Melchizedek and Abraham until now Jerusalem stands apart in the history of the world.

I was thankful to have been able to spend so many days in and around the city. Not only was I able to see the holy sites, but I was able to interact with the people who live there: the fifth generation Greek dentist, the monks in the desert, the priests in the monasteries, the Patriarch of Jerusalem, Archimandrites, shopkeepers and venders: bedouin, Moslem, Christian, Israeli, and Jew. I had the opportunity to experience real miracles, although some are more dramatic than others.

One miracle is the faith and hope that is expressed by those Orthodox believers who live and work in the area. If you don't visit there you can't imagine it. If you don't live there you've never experienced it. I heard the Patriarch of Jerusalem say that the Orthodox are in that part of the world to provide "balance", to be a voice and a presence in a volatile part of the world that in his mind has a religious problem and not a political one. It takes great faith and hope to believe these things when for the better part of the history of the world this city has been a place of contention. I was amazed at the words of an Archimandrite, who spoke of the "greater Orthodox community" that includes Orthodox, Jews, and Muslims. He explained that due to "poverty, education, or necessity" many people cannot officially be Orthodox when in fact their faith and practice is very much Orthodox. He pointed to the palestinian community, and how important it is to keep material wealth in the family. The Latin church made concessions to allow first cousins to marry so as to accomplish this purpose, even though this church-sanctioned practice would be unheard of in any other part of the world. The result is that many have joined that church for the wrong reasons. He spoke of others who go from mosques to Orthodox sites to venerate icons or relics. They fear reprisals from family members if they were to convert. These men speak from a context that transcends the shortsightedness that many of us live in. These men speak from a faith that they know will eventually prevail. They have a living hope that is not shaken in the face of what stares back at them each day. They continue to labor in their field as obedient servants, trusting that the will of the Master will eventually prevail, whether in their lifetime or not.

Another miracle is my friend Nick. I don't think that he has ever met a person who he has not tried to befriend. In every quarter of the Old City he can't walk five steps without either meeting an old acquaintance or making a new one. He is a one man publicity machine. What does he publicize? Goodwill. Who does he emulate? Christ. With each smile,

shake of the hand, joke, or favor done, he is doing his part to be the peacemaker that our Lord Jesus Christ calls us all to be. I cannot fail to mention his basketball and soccer teams (made up of Moslems, and Christians) who travel around playing tournaments designed to keep kids out of trouble, and keep them engaged in learning that we all are made in the image of God, regardless of our religion, heritage, or ethnicity.

Another miracle is seeing myrrh flowing upward against gravity through marble from the tomb of St. George in the church in Lod. Through St. George's intercessions I was granted a miracle last summerthat many of you know about. The myrrh which is contained upon my handkerchief is a validation of that miracle of last year that continues to be. I was glad that this myrrh flowing was witnessed by two others, including one who is not Orthodox (but who may very well convert). I mopped the stone dry, and it continued to flow. Myrrh doesn't flow upward out of marble. Myrrh doesn't flow out of marble. People aren't aware of the miracles of the Triune God without His workings of grace and mercy in their lives. Ask Pharaoh. Ask Moses.